515 Crew

[TooManyHumyns]

asap...one that works.
bostitch preferred...but it doesn't really matter...gotta side some shit next week...if i could borrow one for a couple days, that would be rad as well...other wise i will just go sign up for that tool library thing...
also...looking for a used wet saw, and miter saw.
i think thats it...i've got a little money to spend
so let me know.

[Joey Chaos]

Listen up, you can't put siding on with a nailer. Vinyl siding has to flex, therefore the nails need to be left a little loose (maybe 1/8th up). If you shoot it, the nails will be tight, and the shit will eventually come unsnapped and or break, and it'll come back on you. You can put the nails on tight on the starters and channels, but that's about it. Use shingle nails and a hammer, you only need a nail about every 3 feet. If you're referring to cement board (hardy plank etc), it can be shot on with a stick nailer (framing gun), but it's tough to get the adjustment right, and you'll break some. Beings as how it's expensive, save yourself the trouble, and use a damn hammer. Make sure you use galvanized nails if you're putting on cement board, if you don't the heads will eventually rust, and the run off will stain the siding underneath. If you're doing wood lap siding you need a framing gun also. The only way you could possibly get away with using a roofing nailer is if you're putting on steel siding, and even then, it's supposed to flex or it can come unsnapped.


If ever you go to buy a roofing nailer for ROOFING, spend the money and buy the Bostitch with the magnesium frame, it's about half the weight and your wrist will thank you for it.

[TooManyHumyns]

hey, i don't really know why i put roofing nailer, i i think i meant coil nailer...although, when we put up hardi plank we used the roofing nailers i believe...i didnt realize there were so many varietys....anyways, the one i was looking at was the bostitch n80cb....works as an all around nailer for framing, siding and all sorts of other junk...its a little heavy though...
http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp?CAT ... ing+Nailer
as for everything else, of coarse im going to use galvonized nails....are those hot dipped as well protected? ive seen both kinds and have heard mixed reviews...also, any suggestions with wrapping the structure with something other than tyveck? its a small office for an apartment complex....like a 1 car garage...i dont really need all the paper in the world, those rolls are huge and expensive...could i just use felt paper?
also.
i'm trying to figure out my labor bid, i was going to say 150/sq for cedar lap board...also i was going to charge 50/sq for taking off and papering?
sorry to be a noob, but i gotta figure this shit out somewhere...

thanks

[Joey Chaos]

For just labor, I think $200 a square is too much. I would charge in the neighborhood of $150 plus materials. make sure you bid in the cost to you to hul it away and dispose of it (dump fees), and some labor for doing so. Learn to bid things by time and materials, bidding jobs by the square is tough to get right, different jobs are.......different, and losing money sucks. Figure out how much you need to make in a day, how much help will cost, and figure out how many days it will take you, then do the math. I also like to buy my own materials, as opposed to having the customer get them, so add the materials total to the bid aswell, and get that as a deposit. That way they can't cheap out and make your job harder.

I use fanfold insulation for underlayment when putting on vinyl and steel siding, and tyvek (or the likes) when putting on cement board or wood. You could use fanfold under lap siding, but you have to allow for the extra 1/4 inch when you figure what length of nails you are using.
You CAN use felt paper, as long as your putting on lap siding. Using felt under vinyl or steel siding could cause future condensation issues.